Cooking With Herbs: Some Tips

Tips for Cooking with Herbs
Given today’s budget crunch (winter time fresh herbs cost about $3.00 for a small amount), it is wise to use ALL of the plant; leaves in salads, sauces, stems in slow cooking, flowers in salads, plant as whole vegetable. Cook them at their best.

--Use with a light hand—the aromatic oils are strong

--Blend judiciously for different purposes. Have a leading flavor and combine two to four less pronounced flavors with it.

---Never emphasize more than one of the very strong herbs in a blend.

---Blend or heat with butter, margarine, or other cooking fats as the best way to draw out and extend the flavor of the aromatic oils.

---Fresh (unsalted) "sweet" butter gives more satisfactory results than salted butter or margarine.

---Have salad oil tepid, not chilled, when using herbs in French salad dressing.

---Cut or chop the leaves of fresh herbs very fine.
For some purposes they should be ground in a mortar.

---The more of the cut surface exposed, the more completely the aromatic oil can be absorbed.---Keep in mind that dried herbs are three or four times stronger than fresh herbs.

--The delicate aroma and flavor of savory herbs may easily be lost by extended cooking.

(Excerpt from Savory Herbs: Culture & Use )

Shopping Tips: Herbs to Plant

What to look for in the herb plants:
Plants should not have yellow leaves, browned tipps---or have their roots spilling out of the holes at the bottom of the pot.

If possible, get herbs grown at the location. If you ask, you may find the woner saying,thee herbs are brought in. That is often because herbs make up a small part of the business, unless it is an herb specialty business. Well Sweep Farms in Port Murray is just that.

Buy soon enough that you get a choice.

If you buy online, find out if the herbs are shipped bare-root or in pots. It makes a difference-although both methods should result in you having healthy plants. Make sure you can get your money back if the plants are damaged.

Make sure you place your herbs in the garden IMMEDIATELY. The plant will go through a shock and send out stress signals such as yellowing leaves, drooping stems, etc.

We are on the edge of Garden Club Sales in Bergen County and Rutgers University. Other Garden Clubs in NJ have excellent reputations for this sale such as Maplewood. 

Locally? The Garden Club of Teaneck has a sale that ends on Mother’s day. The Very Best Sale in my opinion as a participant.

“Moderate” prices for herbs at Garden Club sales are about $2.00 to $2.50 a plant. On the high end is 3-4 a plant, whereas high is $4-5.50 a plant. Make sure you get a good sized plant, the longer it has spent time growing, the better are the chances to form a healthy root system. Grocery stores? Examine the plants.

Some Local Retailers

Old Hook Farm: herbs are grown orga nically and are in good condition. Prices: Moderate-midrange for the quality.

Secor Farms , 85 Airmont Ave., Mahwah (www.secorfarms.org). ibrings in a limited array of herbs in excellent condition and charges a moderate to high price.

Willow Run in Cresskill has a wide variety of herbs (ranging from several basils to lemon verbena and many rosemaries) for a moderate price.

Culinary Herbs Shopping Tips (Local: Teaneck, NJ)

What to look for: Herbs that are in good condition do not show signs of wilt, yellowing, or “mushiness” in a plastic wrap. Price: it varies greatly, from nearer the $1.00 range to nearly $3.50 a bunch. Look at the size of the whole package when comparing pricing.

Also look at the packing when you are buying dried herbs. It is difficult to tell how long it has been packaged. Flavor “escapes” plastic and cellophane bags in a short time. Look for relatively green dried herbs as opposed to brown. If you can get herbs in glass jars as opposed to plastic; it is preferable.

When you get home, empty the dried herbs into glass jars, and even put a dark paper liner in it to prevent loss. If that is not possible, store the herbs in a dark, dry place, NOT above the stove or in an open, decorative shelf.

Whole Foods Bergen Mall, Paramus. Large variety, fresh herbs, moderate price. array includes lemon grass, basil, cilantro, mint, chervil, dill, tarragon, parsley, sage, other. Farm of origin: www.jacobsfarm.com

Kings Market, Cresskill. Pricey. Good condition. Limited variety ( dill, rosemary, mint[spearmint],thyme, chives], but the basics are in excellent condition.

Farmer’s Market, Hackensack, Main Street: Fresh herbs, including horseradish, mint, other, many dried herbs from the Hispanic tradition, both medicinal and culinary (passionflowers, manzanilla, borage, etc.-about 20.)
Hackensack Market, Passaic Street, next to railroad track Moderate price for a big amount dried in cellophane bags (oregano, chilies [several kinds], malecheta, manzanilla, herba Buena, anise stella (star anise0 whole aloe, more. Dried herbs also include Jamaican curry.
Market at New Bridge, Bergenfield. New Bridge Rd.,opposite Pathmark. Exceptional fresh herbs at about ½ the price of local supermarkets. Fresh ginger, tarragon, mint, oregano, oregano-limited, but fresh.

Market in Foster Village, Bergenfield. Primarily Asian root herbs, spices, fresh and dried. Worth exploring for Asian cooking, as well as for kinds of noodles, fresh produce. Prices? Moderate, although ginger is not cheap anywhere.

Local Supermarkets:
Stop & Shop, Wide variety of fresh herbs, as well as standard brands of dried herbs.

Herbs & Pests

Rosemary can be infected by spidermites (indoors).
Other herbs repel insects: Thyme, Lemongrass and Rosemary turn insects away from your garden. Look up the specific herb in Rodale’s.

Pot Gardens You may be one of those gardeners who enjoys gardening in manageable pots. Indeed, having your herbs in pots ensures that you can decorate with them on your deck and bring them indoors when fall arrives. Also, in the case of plants which wander, such as mint, this is a good way to contain them.

What Kind of Pots? Terra cotta pots let moisture escape, plastic pots keep moisture in, and glazed pots are decorative. You have to play  it by ear! If you do not water regularly, the plastic pots insure moisture longer.

Light? The same amount of light the herb needs in an outdoor garden is true here, with one exception. The sunlight can be more direct through glass. You can move pots to suit the needs of the plant.

Because your herb is in a pot rather than the ground, its water needs will be greater. Be sure to use a regular watering schedule. You can find out just when a plant needs water by placing your finger in the soil to a depth of one inch. If you feel no moisture, water your herb.

It also helps if you consider your plant as needing a new pot occasionally. Look at the bottom of the pot: if you see roots escaping, repotting is needed.

Recipes: Salad Dressings from Around the World

Italian Salad Dressing
Extra virgin olive oil, Salt, Choice quality red vinegar, Crushed black peppercorns, 1 tsp chopped parsley, 1/8 tsp chopped garlic. Marcella Hazan advises, “The salad course is dressed at the table…First, put in the salt…give the salad one quick toss to distribute the salt…Then pour in the oil…there should be enough of it to produce a gloss on the surface of the vegetables… add the vinegar last as soon as you put in the vinegar, begin to toss. Toss gently to avoid bruising the greens. (Some recipes use mint, etc., as a change. “ Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking



African Peanut Salad Dressing1/3 cup smooth peanut butter
1/2 cup peanut oil
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 tsp ground red pepper
Salt & ground black pepper

Combine the ingredients, add salt and pepper to taste and mix well. (African Cooking [Time-Life]

Good Herbal Cook: Blends, Pastes, Powders

Herbes de Provence Dried herb mixUse for stews, soups: slow cooking
Basil, Savory, Fennel, Lavender, Thyme.

Bouquet Garni: Fresh or Dried, Tied. Use for stews and soups. Put in pot, remove before serving Select from: Thyme, Bay Leaves, Basil, Burnet, Chervil, Rosemary, Peppercorns, Savory, Tarragon

Fines Herbes: Minced herbs, fresh. Use at the last minuteParsley, Chervil, Tarragon &
Chives

Madras style Curry Powder¼ cup coriander seeds
2 tbsp brown mustard seeds
2 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp fenugreek seeds
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp red chile flakes
2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp ground cassia cinnamon
1 tsp cardamom seeds (pods)
Combine all ingredients and grind in a coffee grinder. Makes ¾ cup.

Tony Hill, Owner, World Spice Merchants and author,The Spice Lover’s Guide to Herbs and Spices notes, “This is relatively complex and is closest to a “reference” curry powder for Western tastes. In India, there are not premixed powders, the cooks make a curry for the particular dish on the fly.”
______

Cook Book List What I have Relied on All These Years

African Society Garlic

Things taught to me by relatives and graduate students from other countries:
Indian curries and the use of cardamom(Madras),

French fries in Iran and yogurt sauces with garlic and mint:Iranian (Shiraz),

A fresh tomato with tuna, basil and homemade talian dressing--Italian (Sicily) I was an eager learner, the payoff was so good,

Historical Cookbooks (1960s-1970s, when I was young)

KimChee, Spiced beef, Vegetables with herbs, noodles, chili peppers, sauce( sesame oil, ginger, hot peppers )The Encyclopedia of Asian Cooking

Groundnut and Chicken Stew with herbs and spices, African Cooking Time-Life

Tomato Sauce with Homemade Pasta, Cassatas, Cold Braised Stuffed Veal with Tuna and Caper Sauce Italian Cooking Time Life

Latter Day Cooking
The Use of The Internet:
I would seek recipes by cuisine, look inside of new cookbooks with
Amazon.com's "look inside" feature and decide on what to add. Also, the collections of food magazines and recipe collections would be examined with mixed results.

I still like cookbooks, and they may get greasy; but they make for such good reading!

Sanam Lamborn, My Persian Kitchen, http://mypersiankitchen.com/mast-o-khiar-persian-yogurt-cucumber-dip/ and many other recipe sites/ Lamborn's collection, probably not well known yet, has the recipes I remember my Iranian friend cooking and teaching me how to prepare.

The Spice Lover’s Guide to Herbs and Spices Tony Hill. Probably the single best book on the use of spices and herbs around the world's cuisines. He owns a world-

The Soul of a New Cuisine A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of AfricaMarxcus Samuelsson. You like rubs and a quick way to make Berbere? This is the cookbook for you.

The South American Table: The Flavor and Soul of Authentic Home Cooking This takes you around the Continent and islands and you will come through with new flavor combinations.


There are so many more! The extension of interest in seasoning from herbs to herbs and spices is a result of these cookbooks and many others, as well as having delicious introductions to these cuisines.

Finally, a masterful book on cooking with herbs:
Jekka's Herb Cookbook by Jekka McVicar, features recipes fo reach herb outlined in the book. They are not contrived or forced, the way many collections are. I have tried one recipe recently that I repeat every chance I get to do so: Rosemary Roasted Potatoes (with Gray Sea Salt, the "gray" mine).

So a collection of cookbooks, winnowed about ten years ago, is steadily growing back to its original size. The cookbooks are better---that is probably my maturity in selection, as well as the general improvement in the quality of cookbooks today.


What cookbooks have stayed with you? What are the New Ones gaining space on your shelf?